I paint the surface with several coats of acrylic paint if desired. Let that dry. I cut my paper or fabric to fit the surface — I typically use a ruler and craft knife over scissors to get the most precise fit. I apply Mod Podge to the surface as well as to the back of the paper or fabric. I work quickly since Mod Podge dries quickly. I smooth the paper or fabric onto the surface and roll out with a brayer. I let that dry for 15 — 20 minutes, then I decoupage over the top.
Let that dry and then give the whole project 2 — 3 more coats. Let dry before using. The key is using enough Mod Podge during application, and allowing the Mod Podge to dry long enough between layers. Please watch the video for all the details. It really depends on the climate, drying time and a variety of factors. If you find that your Mod Podged item is still tacky even after drying, just use a clear acrylic spray or brush-on sealer on top.
Though Mod Podge is self-sealing, the sealer gives your project an added layer of protection. If it is more difficult to peel off, then you should be safe to Mod Podge the item. Touching Mod Podged felt gives me the yips! This is just personal though — you might not mind Mod Podged felt. I like my Mod Podging as flat as possible. If you want to go ahead and use photos, just make sure to use a lot of Mod Podge, because it takes more than normal.
I use 20 lb. Inkjet — Print the picture onto the paper and let it dry for at least ten minutes. Spray both sides of the paper with clear acrylic sealer several coats and let it dry.
Paint with a thin layer of Mod Podge on both sides, then let it dry. Then you can craft as normal. Laserjet — no prep work necessary. I always user laserjet printouts, even if I have to go to an office supply store to get it done. By medium, I mean that I can visibly see the white completely covering the surface. You are better off applying too much than not enough, because you can always wipe away excess.
Not enough will cause wrinkles. I would use a few thinner coats to seal your project. I would use two — three coats to seal a project. I recommend four — five coats for a project that is going to be outdoors. If the project is going to go through some serious weather conditions, you should also purchase an outdoor sealer for added protection.
I recommend a brayer and squeegee like in the Mod Podge tool set. The brayer is good for big, flat surfaces and the squeegee gets into corners. They add character! If you are a newbie, start with thicker scrapbook papers before moving to thinner. Once you get the hang of it, you will be able to move to the thinner papers. In terms of Mod Podging edges, just add more Podge around the edges and wipe away with a brush.
Use a soft bristled brush and then sand between coats. To do this, apply the Mod Podge and let it dry an hour. Then use steel wool and lightly sand the entire surface. Do this between every coat. After the final coat, sand and then spray a clear acrylic sealer to finish. You will definitely melt your project or the Podge if you get too close or use too hot of a setting.
Plus sometimes Mod Podge stays tacky in certain climates, so I spray it to prevent that. Any clear acrylic spray sealer will do the Mod Podge brand sealers are good.
But if you want something super-duper safe with no VOCs, use this. I know a lot of people sell their projects online, and therefore want to ship their items. Read my instructions here for doing it without ruining everything! Get my list of essential decoupage supplies here.
You can use regular taklon or natural bristle brushes found at your local craft retailer. You should always wash brushes immediately after Mod Podging. Regular brush cleaner or non-abrasive soap works very well for cleaning brushes. I use a brayer for larger items — like tabletops. I can apply more force to smooth and work more quickly than if I just used my hands.
The brayer just glides across the paper or fabric, so you can get everything flat before it dries. Spray both sides of the paper with workable fixatif several coats and let it dry. Paint with a thin layer of medium on both sides, let it dry. Then you can decoupage as normal. I actually wrote an article about this very thing here — you need to check it out!
Paint with a thin layer of your selected formula on both sides, let it dry. Yes, you can. But you will need to re-Podge the entire surface. Mod Podge is tough. For instance, you can remove it from a tabletop, but I would mist it with water and then let the water soak in. Then you have to sand. If the Mod Podge is still wet, you might be able to. A frame that was an odd shape, if you can believe it.
Once I Mod Podged, it was all over because the paper wrinkled like crazy. That frame went into the garbage. If you layer papers, then you will definitely be able to feel where they cross over, just because papers have thickness. I love the satin finish of Hard Coat and Dimensional Magic is just. Yes, you can definitely paint on top of Mod Podge. You can 1 use tweezers, 2 wear gloves or 3 wash your hands frequently.
I get them too. Laser prints are best for decoupage projects. But if you can't take the files to a print shop, try polyurethane or JudiKin's Microglaze. When using polyurethane make sure to do at least 2 or 3 coats. Microglaze is great also, I used it a lot when I made those trendy scrabble tile necklaces back in the day. Good luck! That's a really good idea! Inkjet runs when wet. When I want to use ink jet prints I give them a few light mistings of Krylon spray sealer.
For decoupage you may want to seal both sides to keep the moisture from seeping through. That's exactly the stuff I used. Did you mean to spray the paper before printing or after? MinnieMaudsAtti c Conversation Maker. Someone recommended using an Epson model that, uses a resin-based ink that doesn't bleed when in contact with water. It was quite an old model - WF I think. I've not used one myself but the person who recommended it to me is a mixed media artist who makes collages not sure if he does decoupage.
AtticObsession Reader. It's seriously expensive up front, but a color laser printer is the way to go. Trying to seal inkjet prints is going to take SO much of your time, plus you're still going to have failures now and then that will take MORE time. And none of the sealants is exactly cheap. Laser toner cartridges are pricey, but they last a long time, and the difference in picture quality is amazing.
NancyMichalak Crafty Poster. You can use almost any paper or light fabric material to cover your surface.
Wrapping or origami papers are great because they're decorative and a good weight. Other types of material for decoupage include: Wallpaper. What materials can you use to decoupage? Almost any surface can be used to create a decoupage project. Suitable surfaces include wood, papier mache, terra cotta, tin, cardboard and glass. Only SOME plastics are okay for decoupage — I recommend testing a small area before completing your entire project to make sure that the Mod Podge will adhere.
How do you finish decoupage? To achieve a finely lacquered finish you will need to sand lightly after a few layers of varnish and wipe away all dust. What is decoupage glue made of? But people are paying heaps for this crafting Must Have, to do things like decoupage and scrapbooking, that people have done for years with watered down PVA.
PVA is also known as Elmer's glue or woodowrking glue or simply white crafting glue. Is decoupage and Mod Podge the same? As mentioned, paper is the most common material used in decoupage, as it can be sealed with decoupage glue to make it look as if it was originally part of the object it is adorning. Mod Podge is one of many available decoupage glues, each with a different consistency and finish. Why did my Mod Podge dry white?
Moisture is probably the reason the Mod Podge isn't really drying or drying white. Try leaving the pieces in the afternoon sun or even sticking them in the oven at a very low temperature.
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